Plumbing tips aren’t hard to come by, but plumbing tips from the experts are. Mr. Rooter^® Plumbing has dedicated the space below to answering your questions with knowledge that comes from years of experience.

This week’s TIP: All About Commercial Plumbing Contractors

Commercial plumbing contractors offer a wide range of services, with many dedicated to specific industries such as food service. Are you looking for a regular relationship with a commercial plumbing company? The best offer frequent customer or preferred customer programs that give you priority for emergency services and routine maintenance calls.

Avoid dealing with plumbing services that give you specific quotes for plumbing work without doing an on-site inspection. Commercial plumbing work is subject to many variables and an accurate estimate simply can’t be given over the phone unless the problem has been diagnosed in person. Your plumbing problems may be complicated by issues beyond your basic control; tree roots can penetrate sewer lines, the original installation of pipes or drains could be defective.

A commercial plumbing expert can give you sound advice on how to control or repair these issues, and what kind of preventive maintenance the company can help you with. Never pay for an on-site inspection meant to give you an estimate. The commercial plumbing service should offer this for free. When in doubt, ask during the telephone consultation if there is a fee for a specific service.

For more info visit the Mr. Rooter website.

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Jim Jennette is HRG’s resident plumbing expert of our popular “Ask the Experts” section, regularly answering the plethora of plumbing questions sent in by our readers. With more than 20 years of plumbing experience, Jim’s extensive knowledge and resources give him the tools to tackle any plumbing issue or question. Jim Jennette works at the Mr. Rooter Corporation now coaching Mr. Rooter franchise owners in every aspect of their businesses as a franchise consultant, a position he’s had for over five years.  Jim is also skilled in garbage disposals, water heaters and boilers as well as pipe bursting and relining, which is new technology to replace broken underground piping without digging up yards and sidewalks.

Here is a round up of some frequently asked questions, which may be of great help to you!

QUESTION: My wife accidentally dropped some coins down the bathroom sink and I would like to know the simplest way to get them out.

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ANSWER:

You can get the coins out by disconnecting the trap, which is located below the sink and is directly connected to the drain. The trap can hold on to heavier items such as coins or jewelry that are dropped down the sink drain. Using a wrench, you can detach the trap by disconnecting the top and bottom fittings holding it on to the pipes and then unscrewing them. If the trap is chrome or copper, it may have deteriorated over time and could crumble upon removal. If this happens you will need to replace the trap. You can get a replacement trap at a home store or local plumbing supply store. You simply put it back on as it came off. If you are unsure, you may want to call in a plumbing professional. You can always call a plumber to recover the coins if you don’t feel comfortable doing it yourself.

QUESTION: My toilet bubbles when I flush it, and the water level rises to the top, almost overflowing and finally sinks back down, but sometimes doesn’t clear what is being flushed. Sometimes the water level stays high and when I plunge it, it’s better but after awhile the same thing happens. Do I need a plumber or can I just get stuff from the store to get it flushing normally again?

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ANSWER:

No, there is not a simple drain opener you can buy from the store. Since there are a couple different scenarios that could be causing the problem you describe, I would recommend you call a plumbing company. A plumber has the knowledge and tools necessary to repair this problem in a safe and proper way.

The bubbles generally indicate the toilet is gasping for air as it attempts to flush. Your toilet is connected to a house stack, which is a pipe that runs from your sewer line in the opposite way, up through the roof of the building. This allows the pipe to “breath”, allowing an escape for air and creating the partial vacuum that allows the toilet to flush down the sewer pipe. If something has lodged itself in this stack pipe it can prohibit a good flush. The object will need to be removed, usually by a ‘snaking’ operation of the pipe, which a plumber can easily do.

The other possible problem is rare, but on occasion an object can become stuck in the throat of the toilet (the portion you do not see as the flush passes to the sewer line). This may be the reason your plunging will work on occasion. It may dislodge the object for a few flushes but it then reverts back to its former location, blocking the flush again. This can usually be remedied by removing the toilet from the floor and searching for the object from the underside of the toilet. I’ve found small toys and action figures, large plastic caps and even credit cards that can act as a cantilever and lodge permanently in the toilet. Removing any of these objects that cannot be found once the toilet is lifted from the floor may require breaking the toilet and then installing a new one. The toilet would have to be reset to the floor with a new wax seal to prevent leakage. Again, a plumber can do this for you.

QUESTION: the nuts under the sink connected to the water lines are stripped, and my tap wrench cannot grasp the nut, how do I remove them?

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ANSWER:

I would use a basin wrench, which has a long arm that allows you to reach high into the under sink area. It has a set of ribbed jaws (much like a large wrench) that can grasp a stripped nut or one in a difficult location. You can buy a basin wrench at a local plumbing supply house or a home improvement store.

QUESTION: Over the last few weeks, we have been getting a nasty odour from the kitchen drain. We’ve tried flushing it with Drano, vinegar, baking soda, etc but to no avail. A friend tells me that because the kitchen drain is not vented, the odour is probably sewer gas. We have been in the home 1.5 years so I asked him why we would only be having the problem recently. He stated that because there have been a lot of new homes in the area, there’s likely more pressure on the overall system now and therefore the gas is being forced back through the water in the trap. Any thoughts or suggestions?

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ANSWER:

The first issue may be rather serious because all waste systems in houses and commercial property must have proper venting. If the line in question is NOT vented, this needs to be corrected immediately. Venting helps provide air to be introduced into the system, assisting in the removal of waste water down drain lines and preventing foul odors.

The other device that is important is the trap under the sink. This device develops a water seal that prevents gases from entering the dwelling and is a critical part of any plumbing system. If the line is vented and there is a trap seal, there is another possibility in cold climates called “hoary frost’ that can develop. It occurs when the venting exiting the roof of the dwelling has ice and snow buildup, and it freezes solid, preventing the house gases from exiting and creating gurgle sounds and possible foul odor in the system.

If you are unsure about which of these effects are taking place, consult a qualified plumber to check it out.

QUESTION: We are getting septic odours from 2nd floor bathroom sink especially in very cold weather. Is water being pulled out of the trap?? What is the fix? No issues with tub or toilet.

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ANSWER:

Water is being pulled out of the trap. This sort of problem usually occurs in the northern parts of North America, and it usually involves a heavy buildup of snow on the roof. A simple solution would be to cut the vent pipe in the attic area and insert a new longer piece of vent pipe up through the roof. Be sure to reconnect the vent pipe and seal it in. It should be above the deepest anticipated snowfall lines. The only other option would be to defrost the pipe every time it snows, but that is not too practical.

QUESTION: We are planning to renovate our basement bathroom. The existing plumbing pipe for the sink comes up from the floor and it seems that a full vanity is required just to hide this black pipe. The contractor has advised that there is nothing that can be done to change that, and that a pedestal sink or a vanity that is open at the base are not options. There isn’t really enough room for a vanity – one of the cupboard doors on the previous vanity wouldn’t open fully because the toilet is too close. We presume that the plumbing could be changed, but is the contractor really saying that it would be very costly to do so?

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ANSWER:

The line can be rerouted to accommodate a pedestal sink, but I can’t tell you how much it will cost without looking at it. I would get an estimate from a plumber. How much time and money are you willing to devote to this task? A “false” wall could be constructed and the floor jack hammered up to make the proper moves to accommodate the new fixture. The pipe could then be run up the false wall to the proper height to the rough, which is the point where the pipes protrude from the wall to where the sink will be attached, in the pedestal sink. Remember that the line must be vented to provide air supply to the system and to be in code compliance.

QUESTION: My Bathroom sink takes up to one hour to drain. I have disconnected the trap and cleaned properly. As soon as I unscrew the trap it drain very quickly. But as soon as the trap is reconnected there is no suction to drain the water out of the sink. Please help.

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ANSWER:

The drain is probably clogged downstream from the trap. It will need to be cleaned out using an electromechanical snaking machine or a high velocity water jetter machine, which is even better. Only a trained professional should use the second choice as other damage may occur if not operated properly.

For more handy tips and info, check out the new “Mrs.” Rooter blog, MrsRooter.com, which will officially launch in September, written by the company president Mary Kennedy Thompson.

Originally published August 28th, 2009

by Mr. Rooter

Mr. Rooter Plumbing uses Wally the Wrench in The Drip Game on Facebook to promote being Water-Wise™ in real life.

The Drip Game is about stopping leaks, which has become a rampant problem in reality. More than 1 trillion gallons of water is wasted from household leaks each year, according to the Environmental Protection Agency.

“We started the Water-Wise initiative at Mr. Rooter Plumbing to bring attention to the importance of conserving water,” said Mary Kennedy Thompson, president of Mr. Rooter Corporation. “With The Drip Game we can make learning about water conservation more entertaining.”

And entertaining, it is. In the first month of being live, The Drip Game has been played more than 65,000 times. That equals more than 7,500 hours of playtime.

“We’ve been blown away with the attention The Drip Game is getting,” said Fawn Barlow, marketing manager at Mr. Rooter Corporation. “It’s challenging, fun and to be honest, my wrist hurts from playing it so much.”

The Drip Game has three levels: sink, toilet and shower. It also has “powerups” that make the game interesting. While some catch, slow and stop the drips, others multiply the score and lower the clog level.

The Drip Game is available on Mr. Rooter Corporation’s Facebook page at facebook.com/mrrootercorporation. Just click on The Drip Game link in the left side menu.

If you have a leak, check out the Mr. Rooter online drip calculator. It determines the amount of water wasted daily, monthly and yearly based on the number of drips per minute.

It’s easy to use. Just enter the number of drips per minute in the box, and the amount of wasted water is calculated immediately. You can find the drip calculator at www.mrrooter.com/AskTheExpert/Drip Calculator.aspx.

Finding and fixing leaks can save the average household more than 10,000 gallons of water annually, according to the EPA. That’s enough to fill a back yard swimming pool.

About Mr. Rooter^®:

Established in 1970, Mr. Rooter is an all-franchised, full-service plumbing and drain cleaning company with approximately 300 franchises worldwide. Recognized by Entrepreneur magazine among its “Franchise 500” and Franchise Times Top 200, Mr. Rooter franchisees provide services to both residential and commercial customers. Mr. Rooter began franchising in 1974 and is a subsidiary of The Dwyer Group, Inc. For more information or to find the location nearest you, please visit our Web site at www.mrrooter.com and www.mrrooter.ca. Follow us on www.facebook.com/mrrootercorporation and twitter.com/mrrootercorp.

by Mr. Rooter

10 Tips to Prevent Frozen Pipes

If homeowners don’t winterize their homes before Old Man Winter arrives, he could bring a flurry of high repair bills as well.

“Frozen pipes can be a costly problem if proper precautions are not taken,” said Mary Kennedy Thompson, president of Mr. Rooter Corporation. “Often times, homeowners are unprepared when the winter weather hits.”

The best way to prevent frozen pipes is to take the necessary precautions now. It can save homeowners time and money later.

Mr. Rooter Plumbing has 10 simple tips that will help homeowners keep their pipes from bursting when temperatures plummet this winter:

1. Insulate pipes

• Cover faucets and exposed pipes with insulation or wrap thick towels around them.

2. Secure basement doors, windows and crawl space openings

• Caulk, seal and weather-strip.

3. Drain outside water lines

• Remove garden hoses from outdoor faucets, close interior valves that lead to outside hose taps and then open outside hose taps to drain.

4. Apply electrically-powered heat tape to pipes

• Follow the manufacturer’s instructions or call a plumber to do this.

5. Wrap water heater with an approved manufacturer’s blanket

• Use the appropriate type of blanket for your water heater

6. Open cabinet doors

• Allows heat to circulate and keeps interior pipes warm.

7. Keep faucets running

• Either a small trickle of water or constant drip is recommended when temperatures drop below freezing for more than 24 hours.

8. Do not set thermostat lower than 55 degrees when travelling

• Have a neighbor check during below freezing temperatures

9. Locate the main water shut-off valve

• Learn how to use it in case pipes freeze and burst.

10. Have a hair dryer handy if pipes freeze

• Heat pipe’s exterior with a hair dryer by applying heat slowly and moving constantly.

The first step to safely thawing frozen pipes is turning off water at the main water shut-off valve. Next, open the nearest faucet to allow water to drain as the ice melts. Now it’s time to use the hair dryer to heat the pipes, or you can wrap a hot, wet rag around pipes. Do not attempt to thaw exposed frozen pipes with an open flame, such as an acetylene torch. If you’re not a do-it-yourselfer or your pipes burst, call a qualified plumber.

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About Mr. Rooter^®:

“We’ll be available 24/7 to help those having a plumbing emergency. This can be a stressful time for homeowners, and we understand the urgency they feel.”

Established in 1970, Mr. Rooter is an all-franchised, full-service plumbing and drain cleaning company with approximately 300 franchises worldwide. Recognized by Entrepreneur magazine among its “Franchise 500” and Franchise Times Top 200, Mr. Rooter franchisees provide services to both residential and commercial customers. Mr. Rooter began franchising in 1974 and is a subsidiary of The Dwyer Group, Inc. For more information or to find the location nearest you, please visit our Web site at www.mrrooter.com.

Pool heater and heat pump contractor’s guideline on how to choose a quality service company

This article was written to help people choose a company to work on their pool equipment but the philosophy applies to all trades.

Choosing a swimming pool heat pump service contractor for a job is sometimes harder than the work itself. You need to find one who is honest, competent and who cares about the quality of his work with swimming pool heating systems.

They are out there, though. Usually they don’t have to advertise their experience with pool heaters, and they can pick and choose who they work for, but when you find one, hang on to them, because they are worth their weight in wrenches. Hopefully it will be the start of a relationship that will last for many years; one that will give you peace of mind knowing that you are being treated fairly and your electric pool heater, gas pool heater, or solar pool heater is properly installed and maintained at a reasonable price.

The best way is the old standby: word of mouth. Call everyone that you know and ask who they have had a good experience with when it came to the installation of their swimming pool heating equipment. If you are a hermit or new to your area, we’ve made a list of ten rules to help you find a good pool heating service contractor. And don’t forget anything beats just calling the biggest ad in the phone book.

1. Never use a pool heating contractor who solicits you for your business. You have to ask yourself why he’s so lonely?

2. Only use a pool heating contractor who uses his name in the title of his company. I want a person with a big ego fixing things for me. Chances are they will take pride in their work.

3. Try only to deal with the owner of the pool heating contracting company. Employees come and go but owners seem to stay around a little longer. Remember you are trying to develop a relationship.

4. Never chase a special price on pool heater service. There is always something else you have to buy. See rule #1.

5. Ask what the hourly rate is on the phone. When they arrive tell them that you want to know the cost of the pool heating parts before they are installed. If the rate is too high or the materials seem out of line, tell them that it is more than you are able to spend at this time. Never let them lower their price. Tell them that you respect their ability and competence, and the way they value their work but you are unable to do business with them at this time. But the next time something comes up you will give them the opportunity to bid on the work. And the next time do give them the chance. They might be more reasonable.

6. If the estimate is too high, tell the contractor that you will get some more quotes. If he wants to be paid for the service call, pay him and ask for a credit if he does the work later. Then call two other pool heater contractors to get a free estimate for the specific repair that the first contractor said the problem was.

7. Never haggle with the price. See rule Five. If you use them again they will overcharge you and then reduce it when you haggle. You don’t want somebody working for you who feels like they are being cheated.

8. Don’t promise to get them a lot of work with other people. Contractors hear that all day long from people who want a break on the bill. Don’t give the contractor an opportunity to laugh at you.

9. Look at the truck and the service person. Are they clean? Is the name painted on the truck? Does the pool heater contractor look like an axe murderer?

10. Pay by credit card if possible or pay by check when the job is complete. No deposit “to buy the parts” but on equipment change outs you might have to give a deposit. Make sure you have a contract.

When you find a good one, treat them well and you’ll be repaid many times. And don’t forget good people know other good people so don’t be afraid to ask. Maybe you will have a lot less to worry about.

This article was provided by PoolHeatPumps.com